In the Ashkenazi heartland, a struggle over ruins and Jewish memory

Written by Eitan Arom/JNS.org Walking through Lviv, a Ukrainian city near the Polish border whose Jewish population is a small fraction of what it once was, it's not uncommon to spot faded Hebrew letters on the outside of shops. Scattered through town are plaques commemorating vanished sites of Jewish heritage. Graffiti swastikas here and there tell of an age-old hatred etched into cultural memory.

Written by Eitan Arom/JNS.org Walking through Lviv, a Ukrainian city near the Polish border whose Jewish population is a small fraction of what it once was, it's not uncommon to spot faded Hebrew letters on the outside of shops. Scattered through town are plaques commemorating vanished sites of Jewish heritage. Graffiti swastikas here and there tell of an age-old hatred etched into cultural memory.…